Monstera - home care, photo species and varieties

Monstera (Monstera) - A large decorative foliage plant with perforated and cut huge leaves can be found in houses, apartments, offices and libraries. Monstera attracts attention with its original appearance and unpretentiousness. Its name is translated from Latin as "bizarre", and it is difficult to argue with this.

Monstera is a large evergreen creeper from the Aroid family. Its homeland is the equatorial regions of South and Central America: Panama, Brazil, Mexico, Guatemala, Costa Rica.

The plant has a thick climbing stalk with aerial roots. Young leaves on long petioles are whole, leathery to the touch. Then, slots and holes of different shapes and sizes appear on them. The color of the leaf plate is dark green; there are varieties with variegated foliage. Inflorescence is a large cob surrounded by a veil. Blooms rarely.

In indoor conditions, the monstera grows up to 2-4 meters, and what can be achieved in 4-5 years. For a year issues 2-3 sheets. Life expectancy is 10 years or more.

Useful properties of monstera

Large leaves of the monstera actively produce oxygen and increase air humidity, which positively affects the microclimate in the room.

The plant absorbs formaldehyde vapor and electromagnetic radiation, ionizes the air.

It is believed that Monstera favorably affects the nervous system and strengthens the immune system.

Caring for a monster at home. Briefly

Caring for a monster at home. In detail

Monstera home care does not require too thorough. The plant is quite unpretentious. However, in order to get the most beautiful decorative effect from it, you should try to bring the conditions of detention closer to the natural conditions in which it grows in the wild.

Flowering monstera

Monstera inflorescence is a thick, cylindrical cob, up to 25 cm long, wrapped in a coverlet. It resembles the blooming of calla lilies or spathiphyllum. The flowers are bisexual above, and sterile at the base. The fruits are similar to a corn cob, up to 25 cm long.

They taste like pineapple or banana. Flowering decorative value is not.

In room conditions, only large, adult plants bloom, and then it is extremely rare.

Temperature mode

Monstera loves warmth. In summer, the optimum temperature for it is 20-25 degrees. With thermometer readings above 27 degrees, it is important to ensure high air humidity. In winter, the plant feels comfortable at 16-18 degrees. If the thermometer is less than 16 (can withstand a temperature drop of up to 10 degrees) - the monstera stops growing. In this case, it is important to significantly reduce watering.

Especially in the autumn-winter period, the flower should be protected from drafts and sudden changes in temperature.

Spraying

Monstera at home prefers high humidity. It also transfers dry air for a short time, but it will feel most favorable when humidity is not lower than 60%.

The plant responds well to spraying. The procedure is carried out every other day, and at high temperature - daily, with settled or filtered water at room temperature.

From time to time, leaf plates are wiped off with dust with a damp cloth.

Lighting

Monstera loves good bright lighting, but without direct sunlight. The optimal place is the eastern or western windowsill. On the south side, it is best to place the pot near the window to avoid burns on the leaves.

It is widely believed that a home monster tolerates shade well and can grow in the back of the room. This is not entirely true. Although the plant will not die under such conditions, it will lose its decorative effect: the stem will stretch and the leaves will be crushed.

In the conditions of shade or partial shade, it is recommended that the monster be illuminated with phyto- or fluorescent lamps, organizing it a 12-hour light day.

Watering

In the spring-summer period, the monstera needs abundant watering, especially in hot weather. The next moistening is necessary as soon as the topsoil dries. In winter, the frequency of watering decreases: the substrate in the pot should dry by ¼.

The plant does not tolerate both complete drying of the soil, and its overmoistening. The first is fraught with the loss of leaf turgor and the drying of their ends, the second with rotting of the root system and fungal infection of the stem.

Monster Pot

The size of the pot depends on the size of the plant. Since the monstera has a large root system, the pot should be voluminous, deep and stable. For adult specimens, you need to take care of large pots or wooden tubs.

When transplanting, it is optimal to choose a pot that would be 3-5 cm larger in diameter than the previous one. Mandatory presence of drainage holes in it.

Ground for monstera

Monstera at home prefers loose, fertile soil that absorbs moisture and allows air to pass through. You can buy a store substrate for monster or palm trees.

If you can prepare the mixture yourself, you can choose one of the options:

• Sod land, peat, humus, sand and sheet land in a ratio of 3: 1: 1: 1: 1;
• Peat, sheet land and coarse sand or perlite (1: 2: 1);
• Sod land, peat, humus and sand in equal proportions.

Self-prepared mixture is important to disinfect with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Fertilizer and fertilizer

Young instances of monstera do not need additional nutrition. Adults should be fertilized during the period of growth and development (from March to September) once every 2-3 weeks. Complex fertilizers for deciduous plants are suitable.

1-2 times a season, mineral dressing can be alternated with organic, for example, mullein solution.

Monstera transplant

It is recommended that a young monster be transplanted every year in the spring, adult specimens - once every 2-4 years. If transplantation is not possible due to the large size of the plant, it is recommended to replace the top (5-7 cm) soil layer annually.

Transplantation is usually carried out by transshipment so as not to damage the fragile roots. The subordinate roots are not trimmed, but are sent to the ground, and then sprinkled with soil. At the bottom of the pot, it is important to lay a 4-5 cm layer of drainage to avoid acidification of the earth. In its quality, pebbles, broken bricks, expanded clay can be used.

Pruning

A monster flower does not need regular pruning or crown shaping at home. If necessary, trim old drying leaves, this stimulates the growth of new side shoots.

If the monstera is very long, or you just want to stimulate its branching, you can trim the top of the plant.

Since the monstera is a vine so that it does not break, it is important to provide her with support. It can be a bamboo or ordinary stick. The support can be wrapped with wet moss and periodically moistened. This will provide the plant with extra moisture. The stalk is not tightly attached to the support with the help of twine.

Is it possible to leave a monster without leaving? What to do if on vacation?

Monstera can tolerate lack of care for 3-4 weeks. Before leaving, you should water the plant abundantly, put it in a tray with wet moss or expanded clay so that the bottom does not touch the water. The surface of the soil can be covered with wet moss and provide shading from the sun.

Monstera Breeding

Monstera propagates at home in two main ways: by cuttings and air layering.

Monstera propagation by cuttings

Monstera propagates by both apical and stem cuttings. The best time is spring, the beginning of summer.

A shank should have at least one node and a mature leaf (ideally 2-3). The presence of an air root primordium is welcome. Short cuttings root faster. The upper cut should be straight directly above the kidney, the lower - oblique, 1-1.5 cm below the base of the sheet.

Cuttings are dried for an hour, and then planted in a mixture of peat with perlite. The container is covered with polyethylene or a glass jar and placed in a well-lit (but without direct sunlight) and warm (24-26 degrees) place. The greenhouse is regularly ventilated, and the soil is constantly kept moist. When a new leaflet appears on the handle, it is transplanted into an individual pot in constant soil.

The rooting of the handle can be carried out in water, adding a few tablets of activated carbon to it. After 2-3 weeks, after the appearance of the roots, the stalk is planted in a permanent place.

Monstera propagation by layering

On the surface of the bark of the stem, an incision is made below the base of the leaf, not lower than 60 cm from the soil surface. The incision site is wrapped with wet moss and is constantly kept moist. After a few weeks, young roots should appear at the site of the incision. The stem is cut a few centimeters below these roots and is planted in an individual pot.

So a full-fledged young instance is formed. And the "mother" plant will soon release new side shoots.

Diseases and Pests

Due to improper care, the monstera is sometimes attacked by pests and diseases. Here are the possible problems and their causes:

• Monstera roots rot - acidification of the soil due to excessive irrigation.
• Monstera leaves turn yellow - increased air temperature or excess moisture in the soil.
• Monstera is slowly growing - lack of light and / or minerals.
• Non-hollow leaves - lack of lighting and / or nutrients.
• Monstera leaves have brown, dry tips - low humidity in the room.
• Brown spots on the leaves - low temperature and / or burns due to direct sunlight.
• Monstera's pale leaves - excess lighting.
• Lower leaves turn yellow and fall - The natural process of growth and maturation of a flower.
• Leaf blades become paper-like and brown. - a small pot.
• Leaves are deformed - watering with hard water.

Of the pests, the spider mite, scutellum and aphid can threaten the monstera.

Types of home monstera with photos and names

Attractive or Gourmet Monstera (Monstera deliciosa)

In rooms it grows up to 3 meters, in greenhouses - up to 12 m. Young leaves of a heart-shaped form have solid edges, adults - strongly dissected with holes. The diameter of the leaf plate reaches 60 cm. An inflorescence-cob, about 25 cm long, is surrounded by a white veil. The fruit ripens after 10 months; it resembles pineapple in taste and smell.

Monstera oblique (Monstera Obliqua)

Whole leaves, covered with large holes, have a lanceolate or elliptical shape. They reach a length of 20 cm, a width of 6 cm. The length of the petiole is up to 13 cm. One half of the leaf plate is slightly larger than the other. Hence the name of the species. The inflorescence is small, up to 4 cm long.

Monstera Adanson (monstera adansonii)

In height, it can reach 8 meters. Thin leaves have an ovoid shape with a large number of holes, the edges are not dissected. The length of the leaf plate can vary from 25 to 55 cm, the width is 20-40 cm. The ear, 8-12 cm long, is surrounded by a light yellow bedspread.

Monstera Borsigiana (monstera borsigiana)

The stems are thinner than that of an attractive monstera. It has evenly cut heart-shaped leaf plates with a diameter of up to 30 cm. Color - dark green. There are varieties with variegated foliage. For example, Monstera Borzig variegate.

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