Unlike some other fruit trees, the apple tree needs a mandatory crown formation and regular pruning. Without this necessary stage, one cannot count on the yield and quality of the fruits declared by the variety. The gardener must clearly understand - how and why this or that pruning is carried out, how to carry it out correctly.
Apple tree pruning dates
It is impossible to give exact calendar terms for pruning an apple tree - they depend on the type of pruning and the region of cultivation. The basic rule determining the possibility of pruning is that such an operation can only be carried out when the tree is at rest. And this means that during spring pruning it is carried out before the sap flow begins, that is, before the kidneys swell. Do not do this too early - often return frosts below -15 ° C lead to tree disease with cytosporosis. But it is also undesirable to be late - with the onset of active sap flow, the wounds will heal poorly and for a long time, which leads to profuse gum bleeding, the same cytosporosis and weakening of the apple tree. It should also be noted that most of the types of pruning are carried out in the spring. Autumn pruning should be carried out after the end of the growing season. Moreover, early spring dates are suitable for all regions, and autumn - only for areas with warm winters. In the summer, it is allowed to remove or shorten only thin branches with a diameter of not more than 5-8 mm.
The main types of cropping
Depending on the set goals and the tasks to be solved, trimming is divided into several types. This is done for the convenience of understanding which branches need to be cut or shortened.
Formative pruning of apple trees in different patterns
The formation of the crown is a mandatory step in the care of the apple tree, which is performed in the first years after planting. If you skip this stage, then the so-called free-growing crown will form, which has a number of disadvantages:
- The crown becomes highly thickened, its internal volume is poorly lit and ventilated. This becomes a favorable factor for the development of various diseases and the population of the tree with pest colonies.
- Uncontrolled growth of a tree leads to its large size, which causes difficulties in caring for it and the loss of part of the crop.
- Skeletal branches often come out of subordination to the central conductor, which leads to the formation of forks. As a result, the crown becomes fragile, some branches can break off under the weight of the crop.
- There are frequent cases of the formation of two to three almost equivalent trunks, which is also not correct.
Currently, quite a few different formations of the crown of the apple tree are known. Consider the most used.
Sparse-tier crown
The oldest of the formations. It is a classic, mainly used for tall trees. Such a formation involves the creation of two to three tiers of skeletal branches within four to six years after planting a seedling. On the formation of each tier is 1-2 years. The height of the stem is laid at the level of 40-60 centimeters.
A stem is a part of the trunk from the root neck to the base of the lower skeletal branch.
The number of skeletal branches in each tier can be from one to three, they should be positioned so that they are directed in different directions and do not interfere with each other. If the crown is not full enough, then on some skeletal branches leave one or two branches of the second order.
Cup crown
The shape of the crown in the form of a bowl has recently become very popular for many fruit trees of low and medium growth. This form provides:
- Tree height control.
- Optimum illumination of the entire volume of the crown.
- Good ventilation.
- Convenience of tree care and harvesting.
There are two types of bowls:
- A simple bowl - the branches of the crown are on the same level.
- Reinforced bowl - branches are located at some distance from each other.
The second option is preferable, since in this case the branches can carry a large load. In order to give the apple-tree a cup shape when planting a seedling, cut it to a height of 60-80 centimeters. After one or two years, 3-4 of the strongest branches are selected from the branches that appear, located at a distance of 10-15 centimeters from each other (in the case of the formation of a reinforced bowl) and growing in different directions. These are future skeletal branches. They are cut by 40-50%, and all other branches are completely removed. Such pruning provokes increased formation of lateral shoots and tops, leading to thickening of the crown. Therefore, in the future, annually, it is necessary to carry out regulatory trimming and ensure that the skeletal branches remain equal, i.e., they are the same length. It is impossible to allow a situation where one of the branches will dominate and take on the role of the central conductor - its presence is excluded with this formation.
Apple tree spindle formation
The spindle-shaped crown formation has become widespread in intensive gardens. It is mainly used for plants on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks. Usually they form a shaft with a height of 40-50 centimeters, a tree height within 2.5-3.5 meters and a crown diameter of 3.5-4 meters. For this:
- When planting a seedling, buds and twigs are removed at the required height of the stem.
- The central conductor is cut to a height of 80 centimeters in the case of an annual seedling. For a two-year, this height will be 100-120 centimeters.
- One year after planting, leave 5-7 branches of the lower tier and tie them to a horizontal level in order to limit growth. Excess shoots are removed.
- Over the next 3-4 years, several more tiers of branches are similarly formed, cutting out the tops and shoots that thicken the crown. After the tree reaches the required height, the central conductor can be cut.
- In the future, the lower tier will consist of permanent branches of the skeletal type, and the upper tiers of fruiting branches of three to four years of age, periodically replaced during the rejuvenating pruning.
Super spindle
This method differs from the previous one in a smaller crown diameter (0.8-1.2 meters), which is necessary for compacted landings. The principles of formation are the same as described above, only the central conductor should not be cut off, since this provokes increased growth of the side branches. And also often formed in this way, apple trees require garters to stake or trellis.
Formation of apple trees on a trellis
When conducting intensive cultivation of apple trees, trellis was increasingly used. For these purposes, various types of crown formations can be used:
- flat spindle;
- super spindle;
- various types of palmettes;
- fan formation;
- all kinds of cordons and others.
What unites them is that the crowns of the trees are located in one plane. At the same time, the most efficient use of the areas, ease of maintenance and harvesting is achieved. All branches on the trellis are well ventilated and receive a sufficient amount of light. In home gardening, this method allows you to grow apple trees and other plants, placing their crowns on the walls of the building or fences, which creates additional opportunities for decorating the site.
Photo gallery: apple tree forming options for trellis cultivation
- Most often, for growing on a trellis, an apple tree is formed in the form of palmettes
- As a trellis, a fence is quite suitable
- Arched trellis for apple trees looks very unusual
- Horizontal cordon is a good solution for growing apple trees on a trellis
- True shaping of apple trees also requires trellis
- The wall of the building can serve as a trellis for the apple tree
Weeping Apple Tree Formation
This form is most often used for decorative purposes to decorate the site. There are two main ways to create it. In the first case, a seedling of a weeping variety is simply planted or a stalk of this variety is grafted onto a dwarf stock. Such varieties include apple trees bred at the South Ural Scientific Research Institute of Fruit and Nutrition (Research Institute for Horticulture and Potato) based on the ancient German variety Eliza Ratke (aka Vydubetskaya weeping):
- Miraculous;
- Cabin boy;
- Grounded;
- Bratchud (Brother of the Wonderful).
These apple trees, in addition to decorative qualities, have increased winter hardiness and can withstand frosts down to -40 ° C. In addition to them, there are also purely decorative varieties of weeping apple trees with inedible fruits.
But since it is not always possible to get a seedling or a stalk of such an apple tree, you can go the second way - apply the method of reverse vaccination. At the same time, an apple tree with a stem about two meters high is grown and at this level 3-4 grafts are inoculated using the "lateral incision" method, placing them with their kidneys down. The shoots that appear after vaccination are tied in the necessary position and a year later they are cut to 3-4 kidneys in order to obtain a dense crown. This pruning is repeated annually for three to four years until the crown is fully formed. In the future, you need to regularly thin out the crown and remove the tops.
Video: weeping apple tree review
Flange form
In a harsh climate, to grow an apple tree, it is necessary to form its crown in the form of a stlan. This is done so that it is possible to completely cover the tree for the winter with snow or some kind of covering materials. Tree formation begins from the moment of planting. It is better to choose varieties with a natural creeping crown, for example, Melba or Borovinka, but you can also use others.
Given that the height of the tree should not exceed 45-50 centimeters, its stem will be no higher than 15-20 centimeters. 2-4 skeletal branches are formed above the stem, located by a cross or crest. From the moment branches are formed and for a long period they are constantly pinned to the ground. And also branches of the second order are also pinned. Other shoots are given the opportunity to grow freely.
Sometimes, with such a formation, two tiers of skeletal branches located one above the other are created. But, as practice has shown, this method has two significant drawbacks:
- The lower tier is in the shadow of the upper, which leads to poor ventilation, and this, in turn, creates favorable conditions for the development of diseases.
- The upper tier is too high and may freeze in the event of a cold snowless winter.
Video: Overview of the Stane Apple Tree
Stamp form
Perhaps, all the listed formations can be attributed to the standard. After all, even the stanzed apple tree has a small bole. But sometimes this is called the formation of the apple tree, in which the height of the stem is at least 1.5-2 meters. It would be correct to call it high-standard. This is often done with a decorative purpose, giving in the future the crown spherical, ellipsoidal, prismatic and other forms. To do this, grow the boles of the required height. It is better if they use strong-growing stocks, for example:
- Bittenfelder;
- Graham anniversary;
- A2;
- M11 and others.
A year after planting, the young shoot is cut off by 15-20%. At a distance of 10 centimeters from the cut, all the kidneys are blinded, leaving one located above the vaccination site. A year later, when a new shoot appears from the kidney, it is tied vertically to the left hemp with a bast or other elastic material. From this shoot, a standard will be formed. After the young shoot “remembers” its correct position, the stump is cut with a sharp knife. Subsequently, lateral branches are trimmed until the height of the stem reaches the desired. It is clear that the greater the height required, the longer the process will take. After reaching the desired height, the shoot is cut off at a height of 10-15 centimeters above it, and all branches on this segment are shortened.
Next, you can proceed to the formation of the crown. And also do not forget to regularly cut the shoots that arise on the stem and from the roots throughout the entire period.
Bush form
This formation, along with the stanza, is often used in harsh climatic conditions. It looks like a cup-shaped, but only has a lower stem and a larger number of skeletal branches. A bushy shape is created like this:
- In the first one or two years after planting, a low (10-15 centimeters) shtamb is created.
- Immediately above it, skeletal branches of the first order are formed. At the first stage there can be many of them - this is good, since they will improve the general condition of the tree and contribute to the development of the root system. Only branches with discharge angles less than 45 ° and more than 80 ° are removed at this stage.
- An advantage in growth is provided by the central conductor, matching the skeletal branches by shortening them.
- After the tree is strong enough, they begin to thin out the crown, cutting out the extra shoots that thicken the internal volume.
- Next, annual pruning is carried out, subordinating the thinner branches to thick ones. If you want to correct the direction of growth of the branches, then the drooping ones are cut to the upper kidney, and the vertical ones to the lower or lateral.
- After the formation is completed (usually this happens for 5-6 years), the central conductor is cut out above the base of the upper skeletal branch.
Video: an interesting way to form an apple tree with ringing the bark
Adjust cropping
Regulatory is called trimming, the purpose of which is to adjust the filling of the internal volume of the crown to create optimal ventilation and light conditions. If necessary, it is carried out in early spring in combination with other types of scraps. At the same time, branches growing inside the crown are cut vertically up (tops) or down, as well as intersecting. Performing this stage, you should observe a sense of proportion and not remove too many branches. It should be remembered that, as a rule, there are many fruit twigs on them and excessive pruning will lead to the loss of part of the crop.
Sanitary
Sanitary pruning is carried out mainly in late autumn. When it is performed, dry, diseased and damaged branches are removed. Removing parts of the branches, they are cut to healthy wood. If necessary, sanitary pruning is repeated in the spring in those cases when in winter some branches were broken by the wind or under the weight of the snow.
Supporting
To maintain fruiting at a constantly high level, support pruning is performed. It is also performed in the spring and in its process there is a phased replacement of the prolific crown branches older than three to four years with younger ones. Branches are subject to removal, the growth of which decreased to 10-15 centimeters. In this case, crown decimation is partially carried out. Sometimes in early summer, when there is an active growth of young shoots, they are shortened by 5-10 centimeters (this technique is called chasing), which leads to the formation of additional lateral fouling branches on them. Subsequently, fruit formations form on these branches, which is the laying of the harvest for the next 2-3 years.
Anti-aging
From the name it is clear that this stage is performed for an old tree in order to restore the level of fruiting and extend the life of the tree. To some extent, anti-aging pruning is carried out with an interval of 4-5 years starting from about ten years of age. The occurrence of the need for rejuvenation is determined by the following signs:
- Yields decreased and the fruits were chopped.
- Flowers and fruits are formed only at the ends of branches and on top of a tree.
- Low level of shoot formation, and the formed young shoots are too short (no more than 10-15 cm).
- The tree is too tall with a dense running crown.
In order to rejuvenate:
- Old skeletal and semi-skeletal branches are removed or greatly shortened.
- Reduce crown height by shortening the trunk.
- Thin out the internal volume of the crown by cutting out intersecting and other interfering branches.
If the tree is too neglected, then the planned amount of work is distributed for 2-3 years, so that it is easier for the tree to undergo the operation.
Rules and techniques for trimming
When conducting pruning apple trees should adhere to certain rules. They are simple and consist of the following:
- Trimming should be done regularly.
- The cutting tool (secateurs, delimbers, garden saws, garden knives) should be sharpened sharply.
- It is advisable to sanitize the tool before starting work. To do this, you can apply:
- 3% solution of copper sulfate;
- 3% hydrogen peroxide solution;
- alcohol, etc.
- The whole branches are cut with a “ring” technique. Leaving stumps is not allowed, since after drying they become a refuge for fungi and pests.
- Thick branches should be cut in several steps to avoid breaking off from the trunk and damage to neighboring branches.
- After pruning, all sections with a diameter exceeding 10 mm should be protected with a layer of garden varnish.
Ring trim
Each branch has a cambial ring at the base. It can be pronounced or completely absent. In the first case, the slice is carried out precisely along this ring.
In the second, a branch is cut along the bisector of the angle between the axis of the trunk (parent branch) and the conditional line perpendicular to the axis of the cut branch.
On the kidney
In the case of shortening the shoot, the cut is done "on the kidney." Depending on its location, the slice can be:
- on the inner kidney;
- on the external kidney;
- on the side kidney.
It depends on where the shoot will be directed, which subsequently grows from the left kidney. Thus, it is possible to increase or decrease the diameter of the crown, depending on the need.
When performing this slice, it should be placed above the kidney by 0.5-1 centimeter and directed from top to bottom.
For translation
If a branch needs to be redirected, then a branch growing in the desired direction is selected on it, and a cut of the main branch is made above its base. After that, the direction of growth will change to a predetermined one. Thus, you can expand or narrow the crown and give it the desired shape. The rules for such pruning are identical to the rules for pruning a kidney.
Features of pruning in various species of apple trees
Different types of apple trees have some pruning features.
How to prune a grafted apple tree
If we are talking about a grafted seedling, then its pruning is no different from root. But if the object of attention is the re-grafted apple tree, then the process of trimming and forming it is different. As usual, it is carried out in the spring of the next year after vaccination. First of all, non-reproductive branches and shoots (if any) should be removed. After that, the shoots for vaccinations are shortened, observing the principle of subordination among themselves of the vaccinations of each tier of the tree.
The principle of subordination in the formation of the crown of a tree means that the branches of each next tier should be shorter than the branches of the previous one, and their tops should be higher than the tops of the branches of the previous tier.
For each vaccination, you need to choose one shoot, which will become the main one and will replace the re-grafted branch. All other branches on the vaccine subordinate to this escape. Over the next 4-5 years, the creation of a uniformly filled crown continues by thinning and translating the branches in the right direction.
How to prune an apple tree with two trunks
Two trunk of an apple tree is the result of improper formation or its absence. This phenomenon is undesirable, since two equivalent trunks will constantly compete with each other and grow high up. It is better not to allow this, but if this unpleasant fact has already occurred and it is a pity to remove one of the trunks, then they form a crown according to the circumstances. First you need to restrain the growth of trunks up, cutting them at an acceptable height (up to 3-4 meters). Thin out the total crown according to the above rules. Do not allow branches to cross among themselves. In general, the principles of crown formation are the same as with a single barrel.
Pruning apple tree
Creeping apple tree requires constant pruning at least twice a year. As a rule, in the fall they carry out sanitary pruning, and in the early spring they support and regulate. If necessary, in the summer, tops and other thickening shoots are cut.
Features of pruning depending on the age of the apple tree
During the life of an apple tree, it is subjected to various types of scraps described above almost every year. For young apple trees, forming pruning is primarily used, creating the selected crown shape. And also, if necessary, perform sanitary and regulatory trimming. After entering fruiting, after a while, supportive pruning will be needed. Throughout the productive period, the listed types of scraps (except for the forming one) are carried out regularly. When the apple tree reaches a respectable age, then you will probably have to resort to its rejuvenation by appropriate pruning described above.
Pruning an adult apple tree - beginner's guide
There are times when, for whatever reason, an adult apple tree at the age of about 10 years has been neglected. In such a situation, the gardener is faced with the task of conducting its competent pruning in order to streamline the crown and restore the normal level of fruiting. To do this, it is necessary to ensure uniform illumination and ventilation of all branches, to create conditions for maximum growth of young fruiting shoots. In principle, the material described above is quite sufficient to complete the task. Just briefly systematize it in relation to a specific situation. So, step-by-step instructions for trimming an adult apple tree:
- Before you start pruning, you need to stock up with a high-quality cutting tool (delimbers, pruners, garden saw, garden knife). The tool must be sharpened and sanitized (more about this was above). If a tree above two meters will also need a stepladder.
- After that, first of all, the crown is cleaned of dry, broken, diseased branches. And also cut out all the thickening crown, fruiting (sanitary, regulating and supporting trimmings) and branches sagging to the ground.
- If necessary, reduce the height of the crown for which they cut the central conductor at an acceptable height along with the branches growing on it. If the volume of removed wood is large, then do it in several steps.
- The next stage is the restoration of the correct shape of the crown. To do this, shorten the branches that go beyond it and violate the principle of subordination.
- After making sure that the crown is sufficiently lit and well ventilated, cut branches are removed from the working area and the sections are treated with garden varieties.
Features of pruning apple trees by growing area
In different cultivation areas that differ in climatic conditions, the same requirements remain for the timing of pruning - they are always performed at rest, mainly in early spring. Only the specific calendar dates inherent in each of the regions differ. And also the preferred formations of the crown of the apple tree depend on the growing region. In this regard, the principle applies: the colder the climate, the lower the crown should be.
Pruning apple trees in the Urals and Siberia (including Altai)
For most regions of Siberia and the Urals, four groups of varieties are available, of which the first two are grown in a bushy or bowl-shaped form:
- Ranetki:
- Ranetka Ermolaeva;
- Change;
- Barnaulochka;
- Dobrynya and others.
- Semicultural:
- Souvenir of Altai;
- Gorno-Altai;
- Ermakovsky mountain;
- Alyonushka and others.
- Large-fruited creeping (in harsh conditions, they are grown exclusively in shale form):
- Melba;
- North Sinap;
- Borovinka;
- Welsey and others.
- Weeping (examples of varieties listed above).
Ways to give the desired shape of the crown described previously. Among the features of pruning in these regions is the fact that often as a result of frost damage to skeletal and semi-skeletal branches they have to be restored due to tops. To do this, take the first vigorous top and cut it by about 30%, which inhibits growth and provokes branching. With the help of pruning, an escape is directed to the kidney in the free space of the crown. Pretty quickly - within 3-4 years - the top becomes an ordinary branch and enters fruiting.
The second feature is the possible death of frostbitten branches or their parts located above the snow level. In this case, sometimes you have to completely remove the affected shoots above this level. After this, a new crown is formed from the lower branches as bushy or bowl-shaped. At the first stage, all the shoots formed allow them to grow, and by the middle of summer they are cut, leaving 5-7 of the most developed and strongest. Usually in such cases, the crown is restored in 1-2 years.
Pruning apple trees in the middle lane, including the Moscow region and the Leningrad region
In these regions, all the formations described above are available. Therefore, their use is a question of the expediency and preferences of the gardener. It is clear that the shag or bush formations are unlikely to be used here, but the possibility of this exists. As for the terms of the cuts, they are selected in the spring approximately at the end of February for the south of the middle zone and during March for the Moscow Region and the Leningrad Region.
Features of pruning apple trees in the southern regions, including the Krasnodar Territory and Crimea
Here is complete freedom. Any formations and any terms are applicable - from late autumn to early spring. It can be cut even in winter if frosts do not fall below -15 ° C in the growing area.
Despite the abundance of various methods of forming the crown of an apple tree, upon closer examination, this stage is not so complicated. Having carefully studied the instructions and rules for pruning, even a beginner gardener can perform them. The main thing at the same time is not to start the tree and regularly look after its crown. In this case, high yields of high-quality fruits and tree longevity are guaranteed.